The forecast said sun all day, it’s July, and staying inside watching TV felt almost illegal. So I did what I do many weekends: I became a tourist in my own city again. This time with a small extra excuse: it’s salg (the summer sales season), and even though I don’t need anything, I like to look. Looking is free, after all.
The result was a 5.2 km walk from Grünerløkka down to the Royal Palace, one of the most classic walks Oslo has. I have done it many times before, and I still love it.
Brunch first, always
I started at Storo with a brunch sandwich (200 kr, and yes, that’s what a sandwich costs in Oslo, welcome). Normally I walk from Storo down to Grünerløkka too, but today I let the tram do that first stretch and jumped off at Birkelund, where the interesting part begins.
Tram ticket: 43.70 kr. If you buy single tickets in the Ruter app, you get a small loyalty discount after a while (mine is 5%). It’s not much, but I take every øre, haha.
The best coffee in Oslo (I said what I said)
First stop, and honestly half the reason I planned the route this way: Supreme Roastworks on Thorvald Meyers gate.
Their chalkboard outside says “Verdens Beste Kaffe”, the world’s best coffee. Bold claim? Here is the thing: one of the two founders is a former World Brewers Cup champion (2015) and has been Norwegian brewing champion four times. The place started in a garage in 2007 and moved to this corner in Grünerløkka in 2013, where they still roast the beans in the middle of the shop. So the sign is less bragging than it looks.
I used to live and work in this area, and I honestly don’t want to know how much money I have given them over the years. Now I stop by whenever I have a chance. Latte on the bench outside: 60 kr. Verdict: worth it, every time.
Thorvald Meyers gate, the catwalk of Grünerløkka
From there I walked down along the tram tracks through Grünerløkka.
A little history, because I think it makes the walk better: in the 1800s this was a working-class district, built around the factories along the Akerselva river. The whole main street is named after Thorvald Meyer, the businessman who bought the land here in the 1860s. When the industry died, the rents got cheap, the artists and students moved in, and today it’s the neighborhood everyone calls “the hip one”: vintage shops, coffee bars, small restaurants, and small parks every few blocks.
Since it’s sales season, I went into more or less every clothes shop on the way, including the vintage ones with racks standing outside in the sun. I tried, I looked, I put things back. I’m a quite conscious spender, but I genuinely enjoy looking at things (my wallet and I have an understanding).
Two small detours I always recommend here: peek into the bakgårder (the backyard courtyards), because half of Løkka’s life hides behind the street facades, and cross over to the Akerselva river for a few quiet minutes. It’s strange to think this calm green river is the reason the whole neighborhood exists. I want to walk the whole river properly one day, from top to bottom, and that day will get its own post. Today it was just a quick hello.
About the bakgårder: many of them are the cosiest coffee spots in the whole neighborhood, and on a day like this they were full of people enjoying the sun with their cups. Which is exactly why I have no photo of the loveliest ones, I’m not going to point my camera at strangers relaxing on their Saturday. So here is a quieter one instead, and the good ones you’ll have to find yourself (that’s half the fun anyway).
The vibe shift
Somewhere after Grünerløkka ends, the city changes character completely. The energy goes from young, hipster, slightly scruffy to polished and touristy: Karl Johans gate, the fancier shops, the souvenir bags. I stopped by Glasmagasinet (the old department store) just to wander around inside, then walked the whole of Karl Johans gate up to the Royal Palace.
Today the shift was extra visible, because Norway plays England in the World Cup tonight, and the center was already filling up with supporters in red national team shirts. I’m not a football fan, but of course I will watch the game and support Norway. From my own sofa, though. I’m a little scared of the crowds (if you know what I mean).
The palace square was packed with tourist buses and photo-takers, which is exactly its job in July. I looked at the palace for a few minutes, then took the T-bane home from Nationaltheatret. Feet: done. Head: completely refreshed.
The bill
| What | Price |
|---|---|
| Tram Storo to Birkelund | 43.70 kr |
| Brunch sandwich at Storo | 200 kr |
| Latte at Supreme Roastworks | 60 kr |
| Sales season shopping | 0 kr (self-control: undefeated) |
| T-bane home from Nationaltheatret | 43.70 kr |
| Total | 347.40 kr |
Small truths from a local tourist
- Grünerløkka’s real charm is not on the main street. It’s in the bakgårder, the side streets and along the river.
- Coffee at Supreme Roastworks beats most 60 kr experiences in this city.
- “Just looking” during salg is a completely legitimate weekend activity. The shops don’t agree, but they can’t stop us.
- On big match days, the center gets crowded early. If crowds aren’t your thing, do this walk in the morning and be home before kickoff.
- Summer Oslo is a different city: everyone is outside, the cafés fill up by early afternoon, and the whole town acts like it needs to store sunlight for the winter (it does).
Do you also have a walk you have done a hundred times and still love? Or is that just me and this tram line? Tell me yours.