A tourist in my own city

25,000 Steps and Zero Plans

· 4 min read

A cake shaped like half a coconut, filled with cream and fresh mango, on a café terrace

I love being a tourist in my own city. I do it regularly: pick a day, put on walking shoes, and see Oslo like I don’t live here. This is the first post of what will become a little series, one day out per post. Some days will be the famous places from the guidebooks, some days will be very local. Today was supposed to be the famous harbor route. It wasn’t.

I had a whole plan, you see. Opera roof, fjord swim, island ferry, the works. Then Sunday morning came, the sun was out, and I realized I didn’t want to follow a plan. Following an itinerary on my day off felt like work with extra steps. So I did what a tourist in her own city is uniquely allowed to do: I threw the plan away and just walked. 25,000 steps, as it turned out.

The accidental route

Map of the walking route from Nydalen through Frognerparken to Skøyen

Map of the walking route from Skøyen along the fjord to Nationaltheatret

I started on the east side with a long warm-up walk, then took the T-bane up to Nydalen. From there, everything happened on foot: through Voldsløkka’s green fields, past the university at Blindern, down to Frognerparken, onwards to Skøyen, and then along the water all the way back to Nationaltheatret. Two T-bane rides at the ends, everything else walked.

Brunch at Joe & The Juice, Nydalen

My standard order there: the Serrano sandwich and an iced vanilla matcha oat latte. The sandwich is 128 kroner and the matcha is 73, so 201 kroner for brunch. Yes, that’s what a sandwich and a fancy drink cost in Oslo. No, I have not fully accepted it either, but it is my little routine and I love it.

The walk nobody puts in a guidebook (Nydalen to Frognerparken)

This stretch was the quiet star of the day. No sights, no landmarks, just green parks and calm residential streets. I greeted some street cats. I inspected the fruit trees hanging over people’s garden fences, and I can report that the cherries are big now and almost ripe. I passed wild strawberries growing by the path.

Wild strawberries growing by the path

Crimson flowers along a path in Oslo, summer

White flowers in front of an ivy-covered wall

This is my favorite thing about Oslo that tourists never see: you can cross half the city through parks and gardens, and it’s genuinely beautiful. It costs nothing. It’s not on any top-10 list.

Frognerparken on a July Sunday

The Vigeland Monolith surrounded by visitors on a sunny day

And then, suddenly, tourists. Frognerparken with the Vigeland sculptures is on every single Oslo itinerary, and on a sunny July Sunday it shows. The park was packed, group tours everywhere, and the sculpture areas were fully occupied by tourists. So I did the local move: I just walked around in the green parts of the park and let them have the statues. 😄 Still, the park is free, enormous, and the Monolith is genuinely worth seeing once. Verdict: worth it, and locals get it every day for free.

Cake break at Fjærkonfekt, Skøyen

From Frognerparken I walked to Skøyen for a stop I had been looking forward to: Fjærkonfekt, a small konditori that makes cakes shaped like fruits. Today I had one shaped like a coconut, filled with cream and mango. Cake plus an americano came to 190 kroner (the cake alone is 134).

A cake shaped like a strawberry, on a plate at home

A cake shaped like a lemon, on a plate at home

Honest verdict: the taste is good but not extraordinary, what you’re paying for is the look, and the look is spectacular. I have bought their strawberry and lemon ones home before, and every time it feels slightly wrong to put a spoon through them. Worth the detour, and a lovely break for tired feet.

The beach club I never knew existed

The last stretch went from Skøyen back toward the center along the water, and here Oslo surprised me, after all these years. Kongen Marina: I have driven past it on the E18 more times than I can count and never once seen it. Suddenly I’m walking through a place with full beach club energy, sunbeds, music, people in swimwear. The palm trees and banana trees are fake, but the vibe is completely real. 😄

From there it was an easy stroll past Aker Brygge to Nationaltheatret, and the T-bane home.

The bill

  kr
Brunch, Joe & The Juice (sandwich + iced matcha) 201
Cake + americano, Fjærkonfekt 190
T-bane out 46.00
T-bane home 43.70
Parks, gardens, street cats, marina, 25,000 steps 0
Total for a full tourist day ~480

A small local money tip hiding in that table: my second Ruter ticket was cheaper because if you buy enough single tickets within 30 days, the app quietly starts giving you a discount. Oslo rewards the spontaneous, apparently.

What I actually learned

Being a tourist in your own city has one luxury real tourists don’t have: zero pressure. No “we flew here so we must see it.” You can skip the opera roof because you feel like cake in Skøyen instead, and the opera roof will still be there next Sunday. The famous route I planned? It keeps. That’s the whole trick.

So that’s day 1 of the series, not the day I planned, but the day I had. Next time: maybe the harbor route. Maybe not. 😏

Tell me: when did you last walk through your own city like a tourist, no plan, no goal? What did you find?

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